OEM vs. Aftermarket Parts, Which Should You Use for Collision Repair?

The Three Types of Parts

1. OEM, Original Equipment Manufacturer

OEM parts are made by or for the vehicle’s manufacturer, to the exact specifications of the factory part. A Toyota OEM fender is identical to the fender that was on the car when it left the factory.

CAPA (Certified Automotive Parts Association) is the most-recognized aftermarket certification, these parts are tested to specific standards. Non-CAPA aftermarket parts can range from “almost as good as OEM” to “barely fits and rusts in 6 months.”

2. LKQ / Recycled / Used OEM

LKQ = Like Kind and Quality. These are used OEM parts pulled from totaled vehicles. The same factory part, just used.

Pros:

• Cheaper than new OEM
• Same factory engineering and crash standards
• Better fit than aftermarket

Cons:

• May have wear, minor damage, or fading
• Color matching requires refinish
• Inspect carefully for hidden damage

Which Parts Need to Be OEM (No Compromise)

Structural Parts

• Frame rails
• Strut towers
• Apron / inner fenders
• Floor pans
• Reinforcements (front, rear, side)

Aftermarket structural parts often use different steel grades or thicknesses. In a future crash, your vehicle’s crumple zones won’t perform the way they were engineered to.

Safety Components

• Airbags and SRS components
• Seatbelts and pretensioners
• Bumper reinforcements (the steel/foam absorbers behind the cover)
• Side-impact beams (in doors)
• ADAS sensors, cameras, and radar

These have safety-critical performance characteristics that aftermarket parts often don’t meet.

Parts That Hold Sensors

• Front bumper covers on vehicles with radar/sensors
• Grilles with adaptive cruise control radar
• Windshields with lane-keep cameras
• Side mirrors with blind-spot radar

The reason: aftermarket bumpers and grilles can have small dimensional differences that affect how the radar “sees” the road. Even a 2mm offset can cause ADAS misfires.

Where Aftermarket Is Usually Fine

• Cosmetic exterior trim
• Door mirror covers (non-radar models)
• Wheel arch moldings
• Some headlight assemblies (CAPA-certified, well-known brands)
• Tail light assemblies (CAPA-certified)
• Hood and trunk emblems
• Step bars and running boards on trucks

Where LKQ (Used OEM) Is a Great Option

• Quarter panels (sectioning is common in major repairs anyway)
• Hoods (often pulled from low-mileage donors)
• Doors and door shells
• Trunk lids
• Wheels (when matching factory wheels matters)

How to Push Back When Insurance Wants Aftermarket

Most insurance companies write initial estimates with aftermarket or LKQ parts to minimize claim cost. For safety and structural components, you can push back:

1. Cite the manufacturer’s repair procedure. Most manufacturers publish repair manuals that specify OEM parts for safety components. We document this for the adjuster.
2. Reference your policy. Many policies have “OEM parts” coverage for newer vehicles (often 0–3 years old). Check your policy or call your agent.
3. Document the safety implications. Aftermarket airbags, structural parts, and ADAS-related parts have well-documented safety differences.
4. Escalate to a supervisor. If the front-line adjuster won’t authorize, the supervisor often will.
5. California Department of Insurance. For genuine refusals on safety parts, file a complaint at insurance.ca.gov.

The Bottom Line

• Always OEM on structural, safety, and ADAS-adjacent components.
• LKQ acceptable for matched body panels (hood, doors, quarter panels) when the donor is clean.
• Aftermarket acceptable for cosmetic trim and some non-safety parts, only well-known CAPA-certified brands.
• Push the insurer for the right parts when they try to default to the cheapest option.

Get a free estimate, we’ll explain the parts strategy for your specific repair.